Here is more information about each of the historical
milestones depicted in the History of Roncesvalles exhibition. Thank you
for your visit.
SANCTUARY AND ROMAN ROAD
The origin of Roncesvalles’ location in this remote part of
the Pyrenees lies in the Roman road that crossed the mountain range through the
nearby Ibañeta pass. The Ibañeta pass is the most important historical crossing
in the western Pyrenees. It has been travelled for millennia by Roman legions,
pilgrims, medieval armies, merchants, and travelers of all eras. At Ibañeta, a
Roman ara or altar dedicated to the Invincible Sun was found. Without a
doubt, Roncesvalles has been closely linked to human spirituality throughout
history.
BATTLE OF RONCESVALLES, 778
In the year 778, an event took place in Roncesvalles that
brought this corner of the Pyrenees to the attention of all Europe.
Charlemagne’s powerful army was ambushed by the Vascones, who at that time
controlled the pass. Charlemagne suffered his saddest defeat. His beloved
nephew Roland was killed in the battle. Roland is to France what El Cid is to
Spain.
The death of the medieval paladin was immortalized in The
Song of Roland, the most famous chanson de geste of the Middle Ages. In the
image we see Roland blowing his legendary war horn so that Charlemagne would
come to his aid. Charlemagne did not arrive in time to save Roland, and his
dream of controlling these lands down to the banks of the Ebro was lost forever
FIRST MONASTERY AT IBAÑETA
The old Roman road had become a medieval route. Many
pilgrims on their way to Compostela to visit the tomb of the Apostle James
followed this path to cross the Pyrenees. The origin of the Collegiate Church
of Roncesvalles lies in caring for these pilgrims. For that purpose, in the
10th century, a first monastery was built at Ibañeta, dedicated to this
mission.
In the image we can see this monastery and one of the monks
welcoming two pilgrims. The monastery also served as a warm and safe refuge.
This vocation for caring for pilgrims remains one of the main characteristics
of the Royal Collegiate Church today.
FOUNDATION OF THE ROYAL COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF RONCESVALLES
In the year 1127, at the initiative of King Alfonso “the
Battler” and the Bishop of Pamplona, Sancho Larrosa, it was decided to
establish the Royal Collegiate Church of Santa María de Roncesvalles at its
current location. Weather conditions there were less extreme than at the
Ibañeta pass. Thus, the care and welcome of pilgrims began to take place in the
new Collegiate Church.
At the same time, the site soon became an important Marian
sanctuary thanks to the endowments granted by various kings over the centuries.
In 2027, the Royal Collegiate Church will celebrate its ninth centenary—900
years of hospitality and spirituality.
OFFERING OF THE CHAINS FROM THE BATTLE OF LAS NAVAS DE
TOLOSA
Sancho the Strong (1194–1234) is the best-known king of
Navarre for his heroic role in the famous Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa (1212),
the most important battle of the Reconquista. From there he brought back the
chains that surrounded the tent of the Almohad caliph al-Nasir. These chains
would later become part of the coat of arms of Navarre.
In the image, we see the king offering a section of the
chains—symbol of Christendom’s victory—to the Virgin of Roncesvalles. These
chains are still kept in the Royal Collegiate Church. They are a historical
relic that speaks of the bravery of the Navarrese people and of Navarre’s
importance in the history of Spain.
A curiosity: among those present at the offering are the two
authors of the exhibition, Julio Asunción and Mikel Castell. Who do you think
they are?
CONSECRATION OF THE CHURCH OF RONCESVALLES
Sancho “the Strong” was the king who most favored the Royal
Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles. He was the one who ordered the construction
of the Church of Santa María de Roncesvalles. In the image we see the moment of
the church’s consecration, on July 17, 1220. July 17 was the date on which
Christians celebrated the victory at Las Navas de Tolosa—the so-called “day of
victory.” The coincidence is surely not accidental. It is possible that the
church was built in part with the spoils that the Navarrese obtained in the
battle.
Moreover, the Church of Santa María de Roncesvalles is a
jewel of French Gothic. It is the first fully Gothic church built in Navarre
and one of the first in Spain.
ARRIVAL OF THE VIRGIN OF RONCESVALLES
A special moment in Roncesvalles is the arrival of the
statue of the Virgin of Roncesvalles, the one that presides over the sanctuary
today. It is a jewel of 14th-century art and is considered the finest Gothic
Marian image in Navarre. It was brought from Toulouse. Since then, it has been
at the heart of many Navarrese people, who have seen in her a heavenly mother
watching over them.
A curiosity: in the image, carrying the Virgin, are the
current prior of Roncesvalles, Bibiano Esparza; one of the priors who served
the Collegiate the longest, Jesús Labiano; the deacon Ion Diaz; and, receiving
the Virgin, the Archbishop of Pamplona, Florencio Roselló. And another
curiosity: the eyeglasses are an anachronism. At that time, glasses with
temples did not yet exist—only simple spectacles. But the faithfulness of the
portraits required this small artistic liberty.
PILGRIMAGES
At least since the 15th century, the pilgrimages of the
villages of Navarre to Roncesvalles have been documented. The Confraternity of
Santa María de Roncesvalles is the largest in Navarre. These pilgrimages are a
sign of the affection and devotion that the Virgin of Roncesvalles has inspired
for centuries—up to the present day.
In May and June, every Sunday is a feast of the Virgin. Each
Sunday, the confraternity members and parishioners of a valley or village come
to Roncesvalles on pilgrimage. They follow the tradition of their ancestors,
renewing the affection they feel for Mary. It is moving to see the
penitents—the cruceros—carrying their crosses from kilometers away.
BATTLE OF RONCESVALLES, 1813
Roncesvalles has been the scene of battles throughout
history. One of the most important was the Battle of Roncesvalles in 1813. It
was one of the last battles of the Peninsular War. A French army advanced
toward Pamplona in an attempt to lift the siege that Anglo-Spanish troops had
imposed on the French garrison entrenched in the citadel. The Allies, also
joined by Portuguese troops, tried to stop the Napoleonic forces as they
advanced toward Pamplona at Roncesvalles. The French were victorious there, only
to be defeated shortly afterward at the Battle of Sorauren.
A couple of curiosities: the church of Roncesvalles was also
used as a defensive stronghold, as can be seen in the image. In the bell tower
you can still see the loopholes that were used for firing from that
advantageous position.
Colonel Walter O’Hara, who fought in the battle, later gave
his name to Roncesvalles Avenue in Toronto in memory of the battle. The
Roncesvalles neighborhood in that same city took its name from the street.
CANONICAL CORONATION OF THE VIRGIN OF RONCESVALLES
On September 8, 1960, the Canonical Coronation of the Virgin
of Roncesvalles took place. It is a solemn rite of the Catholic Church in
which, in the name of the Pope, a crown is placed on the image of the Virgin to
honor her in a solemn way. It is performed only for images of special spiritual
importance.
The Queen of the Pyrenees—as the Virgin of Roncesvalles is
also known—was crowned by the Papal Nuncio to Spain, Monsignor Hildebrando
Antoniutti. The coronation was held on the esplanade next to the Royal
Collegiate Church. The platform was set up beside the large fir trees that can
still be seen there today. Thousands of people attended the grand event.
The gold and jeweled crown is kept in the Roncesvalles
Museum. It is still placed on the Virgin every year on September 8
The Royal Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles is today a major
monumental and tourist landmark.
Thousands upon thousands of visitors come to see the
monumental complex of Roncesvalles. Here stands the mausoleum of the most
renowned king of Navarre, the legendary Sancho the Strong, and it is the place
where the famous knight Roland lost his life in the Battle of Roncesvalles. It
is one of the most important sanctuaries in Navarre, with a Virgin and a church
that are themselves masterpieces of art and architecture.
Moreover, it is one of the key points on the Camino de
Santiago. It has the largest pilgrims’ hostel in Navarre. Roncesvalles is a
place where history, legend, spirituality, and heritage come together in a
unique way—a place you will not forget.
